The Treby Arms

Position No.42

The list— No.42

The Treby Arms

The Treby Arms in Sparkwell, Devon, is a delightfully rustic, Michelin-starred country gastropub.

Masterchef winner Anton Piotrowski opened the 65-seater gastropub in February 2012 and landed the pub with its Michelin star in 2015. However, the chef has since left the establishment, leaving the pub in the hands of new head chef Luke Fearon and general manager Callum Bailey.

The pub no longer opens seven days and is now closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, to allow the kitchen and front-of-house teams to train and develop the menu.

Fearon has “cleaned up” and “simplified” the gastropub’s food, ensuring the biggest part of each dish he serves are the ingredients on the plate.

“It’s very accessible food. It’s a little pricier than you might expect because we are just using the best ingredients,” explains Fearon.

The gastropub chef also makes use of foragers for many of its dishes, who supply wild vegetables and herbs, as well as seaweed and other produce on a daily basis.

New general manager Bailey believes Fearon has completely “ripped up” the old menu and started fresh with Anglo-French cookery.

Although the pair don’t have a favourite dish, Fearon’s current favourite is Cornish crab served with white sorrel, charred asparagus confit, local seaweed and crisp green apple.

“There’s nothing to hide behind on this dish, that’s not something we can do anymore,” the head chef adds. “There are only a few ingredients on all of our plates and something makes it onto the plate because it should be there, not just because [it looks good].”

Over the years, the Treby has attracted a smattering of prestigious accolades, including the Trenchermans Guide Awards Best Restaurant 2015, the Good Pub Guide’s Country Dining Pub of the year for three years in-a-row and two AA Rosettes, to name a few.

Menus available at the pub include a sample taster menu, an a la carte menu, set lunch menu, Sunday lunch menu and bar nibbles, too.

As with the majority of top food-serving pubs in the UK, the Treby Arms sources its produce as locally as possible.

Game and venison come from Sparkwell suppliers Wild Hart Artisan, meat from butchers Gribbles and fruit and vegetables come from the likes of Forest Produce and Tamar Fruiterers.

Diners have the option to eat outdoors with everything hand delivered to their table by friendly and professional waiting staff.

Staple food on the menu include pig cheek with celeriac, Parma ham and pork quaver (£10) or foie gras with Hoisin-glazed duck hearts and pickled mooli (£14).

Main course options include stone bass with sea vegetables, kohlrabi and crab (£27), rabbit loin with Parma ham, faggot, ‘Koffman’ cabbage and smoke (£26) and 57-day aged sirloin with boulangere potato and crispy kale (£35).

As the Treby says, a meal is not complete without dessert where diners can choose from Treby’s gone carrots (as seen on MasterChef 2012) for £10, jaffa cake, cru Virunga 70% chocolate, tangerine and chestnut (£10).

The pub’s wine list is healthy and exciting, with a small selection served by the glass. Prosecco and other types of fizz are also served by the glass, which is ideal for small celebrations.

There are several hotels to stay at nearby the Treby Arms, if you want to make a holiday in Cornwall out of your visit.

Luke Fearon

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The Treby Arms

Sparkwell

Plymouth
Devon
PL7 5DD

01752 837363

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