Top 50 Gastropubs

The Felin Fach Griffin

Brecon, Brecknockshire

Well and truly fach with a bang, the Welsh Borders pub the Felin Fach Griffin, Brecon, re-entered the Estrella Damm Top 50 Gastropubs list in 2021 and has remained a strong contender this year.

Operated by Eatdrinksleep, the hospitality vehicle founded by Ballymaloe Cookery School graduate Charles Inkin, the Bib Gourmand winning Griffin champions sustainability, as a founding member of the Sustainable Restaurant Association, as well as its local economy and produce.

Setting up at the Griffin after working at Michelin starred Shanks in Belfast, Inkin has found a somewhat unlikely home for fine dining between the Black Mountains and the Brecon Beacons.

Visitors can expect to find an eight-bedroom gourmet bolthole whose food menu reflects the land that surrounds it with a typical supper menu boasting fish from Cornwall as well as Welsh beef and lamb, game from local estates, and cheeses from world renowned dairies.

What’s more, the pub houses an extensive showcase of local brewers and spirits makers and is described as an “appealingly unpretentious inn, with outstanding food and comfortable rooms, in breath taking scenery” by The Sunday Telegraph.

The pub was also named the best restaurant in the inaugural Brecon Beacons Tourism awards and was named the Dining Pub of the Year in Wales for the 7th time in 8 years in the 2018 Good Pub Guide.

Dishes you can expect to see on the menu have included onion and thyme soup with rarebit muffin; salt cod fritters with slow cooked tomatoes, gribiche and balsamic; and grilled mackerel with beetroot, horseradish and dill for lunch.

On the dinner menu, which is three courses for £40, diners can expect dishes including crisp lamb with mint, wild garlic and shallots; smoked ham hock with piccalilli, gherkin and tomato to start.

Mains include charred pork rib-eye with BBQ apple and Shropshire Blue salad; beef cheek with beef fat onion, mash and cabbage; and chicken breast with Griffin garlic, alliums and crisp onions.  

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