The Pelican was an ordinary boozer on All Saints Road for 150 years before restaurateur James Gummer came along in 2022 to strip back the decor and install London’s rated Owen Kenworthy as head chef.
Aiming to invest in its neighbourhood as well as being a destination for a modern, rustic style of food, the focus in the kitchen is on sustainable ingredients from local suppliers such as Paddock Farms and Whittington Lodge, producers that promote biodiversity and regenerative farming.
The result on the plate is dishes ranging from cured trout with dill and celeriac and hazelnut hash to crispy duck leg, bavette with green peppercorns and a lobster and monkfish pie made for two.
Bar snacks include Welsh rarebit, spider crab toast and sausage rolls, and on the beer pumps ales from the newly revived Allsopp’s Brewery plus crafty numbers from the likes of Portobello, Deya and Kernel. And there’s a well-chosen wine list, of course
Private dining is available upstairs in the Pelican Room.